Quick answer
A VSR (voltage sensitive relay, or isolator) simply connects your auxiliary battery to the vehicle’s charging system when the engine is running. A DC-DC charger converts the vehicle’s power into a proper multi-stage charge for the auxiliary battery. Choose a DC-DC charger if your vehicle has a smart (variable-voltage) alternator, your auxiliary battery is lithium, the cable run is long (canopy, tray or caravan), or you want solar charging built in. A VSR can still suit an older vehicle with matching lead-acid batteries close together under the bonnet.
Is this a DIY job?
- Difficulty: Medium for a VSR under the bonnet; Pro for a DC-DC charger with long cable runs, lithium or a smart alternator
- Time: 2 to 6 hours
- Tools: heavy cable crimper, cable cutter, multimeter, drill and grommets
- Skills: high-current wiring and fusing
Step by step: choosing
- Find out what alternator you have. Many newer vehicles (roughly 2015 on, and some older ones) have smart or variable-voltage alternators, often alongside stop-start or a battery sensor on the negative terminal. Check the owner’s manual or ask the vehicle maker. A smart alternator may drop its output once the starting battery is full, so a VSR may not see enough voltage to charge the auxiliary battery properly.
- Check your auxiliary battery type. Lithium (LiFePO4) batteries need a charge profile to suit them. A DC-DC charger with a lithium setting is the usual choice. A VSR generally suits matching lead-acid batteries.
- Measure the cable run. Long cables lose voltage. A DC-DC charger mounted near the auxiliary battery makes up for some of that loss. A VSR can’t, so the auxiliary battery may only partly charge. (see What size cable do I need for my 12V accessory?)
- Decide on solar. Many DC-DC chargers have a built-in solar input (often MPPT). With a VSR, you need a separate solar regulator.
- Consider cost and simplicity. A VSR is simpler and cheaper. A DC-DC charger costs more but usually charges more completely.
- Check the charger’s input rules. Some DC-DC chargers need an ignition or “D+” signal to work with smart alternators. Follow the maker’s instructions.
- Fuse both ends. Fit a fuse or circuit breaker near the starting battery and near the auxiliary battery (or at the charger output), sized for the cable.
Specs table
| Situation | Usually suits |
|---|---|
| Older vehicle, conventional alternator, two lead-acid batteries side by side | VSR |
| Smart or variable-voltage alternator | DC-DC charger |
| Lithium auxiliary battery | DC-DC charger with lithium profile |
| Auxiliary battery in a canopy, tray or caravan (long run) | DC-DC charger near the auxiliary battery |
| Want solar charging through the same unit | DC-DC charger with solar input |
| Lowest cost, simplest install | VSR (if the situation above suits) |
What you’ll need
- DC-DC charger or voltage sensitive relay
- heavy duty single core auto cable or twin core auto cable
- circuit breaker / MIDI fuse holder (one each end)
- cable lugs and adhesive heat shrink
- Anderson plug 50A (for caravan or trailer connections)
When to call an auto electrician
- Your vehicle has a smart alternator, a battery sensor, stop-start or a battery management system.
- You’re installing a lithium battery or running cable to a canopy, tray or caravan.
- The auxiliary battery isn’t fully charging after a day’s driving.
- You want a combined system with solar, an inverter and a battery monitor.
Need an auto electrician? Find local auto electricians and mobile services in your city.
Related questions
Q: Can I use a VSR with a lithium auxiliary battery? A: Generally not recommended. Lithium batteries need a suitable charge profile, and they can draw very high current from the alternator through a VSR. A DC-DC charger with a lithium setting is the usual approach.
Q: How do I know if I have a smart alternator? A: Signs include stop-start, a sensor on the battery negative terminal, or charging voltage that varies a lot while driving. Check the owner’s manual or ask the vehicle maker. (see What is a smart alternator and how does it affect accessories?)
Q: Does a DC-DC charger need solar? A: No. Solar input is an option on many units. It’s useful if you camp for several days without driving.
Q: Where should the DC-DC charger go? A: Usually close to the auxiliary battery, with heavy cable from the vehicle side. Follow the maker’s limits on heat and mounting.
Sources
- REDARC, “Choosing the right charger for a dual battery system” – isolators connect on sensed voltage and rely on alternator output; DC-DC chargers set the charge to suit the battery and handle voltage drop to a canopy better; isolators generally suit older fixed-voltage vehicles, DC-DC chargers newer variable-voltage ones; solar input. https://www.redarcelectronics.com/au/discover/choosing-the-right-charger-for-a-dual-battery-system/ (checked October 2026)
- REDARC, “BCDC v DC-DC dual battery chargers” – variable-voltage (smart) alternators need a DC-DC charger for the auxiliary battery; chemistry-specific charge profiles including lithium; solar charging. https://www.redarcelectronics.com/au/discover/bcdc-v-dcdc-dual-battery-chargers/ (checked October 2026)
